As I am finding it difficult to find an Internet cafe close to the hotel and as the hotel laptop kept crashing I will keep my blogs more succinct.
Thursday 5th July
I retrace my steps to the British Cemetery. Easy entrance - I just rang the doorbell and the janitor lets me in, no questions asked. No one around in this lovely spot except the gardener - feels a bit Easter-ish! Hundreds of tiny lizards scuttle everywhere but they are quite harmless of course. Great excitement as I find the Hubbard/Evans memorials on the wall in the corner as AF had described. No rummaging behind shrubs and bushes, as all is in order. I also find the original gravestones nearby which AF never found.. see photos and video. No sign of any Phelps burials.
There are very many other nationalities buried here - notably Germans all from pre World War One. etc. I have a very pleasant hour or so poking around in this lovely garden and the attendant chapel. There are recent graves as well. Many English it seems live here these days. I can understand why. (Wouldn't mind doing so myself!)
I then walked to the English Church, took photos and found the named Phelps (see photos for details) as AF had done on the name of incumbents on a notice in the portico - probably the same board! he would have lived in the nearby Parsonage.
Wandered the streets of Funchal just taking in the ambiance and enjoying the fact I was doing so much good walking in a lovely warm temperature. The slight breeze helped. This is where AF and are quite different - she was collapsing all over the place in the heat but maybe she was here a hotter time.
I went down to the water front. Had lunch of scabbard fish and banana.
Found a Tour-bus and had an interesting hour and a half of exploring more of Funchal (pictures to come) travelling on the open air top. (caught the sun nicely on my arms!)
I then walked to the Madeira Story Museum and was so pleased to see that Elizabeth Phelps was mentioned as the instigator of the Madeiran Embroidery. (Make link) I also bought a book about the Women of Madeira and the Phelps family is well documented
Walked to Largo do Phelps - I instantly recognised it from the old photo AF had taken - although it is more bustling and busy now than then. I spent a while here reflection on the passing of time and chance. Then went to the not very nice but large Carmelite Church which dominates the square. Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament was taking place and lots of people - mostly old and female were doing their devotions. Our Lady over the altar dressed as a Carmelite!
I continue to walk around - now no longer with my map tightly clutched as I now have my bearings. I end up by the Marina at the Beerhouse where they brew their very own delicious and rather strong beer. Delightful supper of Calamari and prawns. Groups and others like me - not that awful silent Coupledom at the hotel.
I had a lovely day today!!!
Friday, 6 July 2007
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